The Joys of Raking

While I am so tempted to leave this post blank ('cause let's be real, what could possibly be joyful about raking?  Unless you consider it doing penance in some sort of religious sense?)  But raking, like mowing, is one of the unavoidable tasks of yard maintenance which can seem like thankless work.  Whenever I rake, however, I remember a story from one of Leo Buscaglia's programs on PBS that I heard as a child (yes, I am just that old, and no, we did not have cable TV so there was nothing better on).

In this particular story, Leo talks about teaching his students during a pretty fall day and being inspired to bring all the leaves inside the house.  At the time it sounded like so much fun, bring all the leaves inside for jumping into and rolling around in.  However, when I think of it today, all I can imagine is the mess that it would make and how long it would take to clean up.  The difference?  Attitude.  If we imagine something to be undesirable and a real chore, well, it will be.  If we can look more at the positive aspects (exercise, fresh air, how nice it will look when done) then it won't be as difficult to get motivated.  I strongly suggest raking with someone else, a family member, gullible friend, etc.  Talking during any unpleasant task always seem to make it go faster and you feel accountable to finish the job when someone else is with you.  An ipod also makes a good companion (plus it can block out the sounds of your neighbor's high powered leaf blower that makes you a bit green with envy).

Autumn Follies

It occurred to while I was admiring the baby grass grow around the new labyrinth that the reason we don't usually plant grass seed in the Fall is because we inadvertently end up disturbing most of the new blades while raking.  Because we have a large maple in the backyard, the leaves tend to fall fast and furious.  And once the maple has covered the yard in pretty red fallen leaves, the (5) pin oaks begin (and don't usually end until after the first snowfall).  So, this year we will have to be really gentle on those areas where new grass has sprouted.

It is generally a difficult task when you have a large area of containing both perennial beds and deciduous trees as raking can disturb other plants as well.  I've tried a few different approaches: using a small soft rake to get some of the leaves out of the beds; hand picking the leaves; and, my laziest method, justifying that the leaves "protect" the ground from heavy snow and just leaving them there until Spring.  The soft rake still pulls a lot of mulch out of the yard with the leaves, and if you've just laid mulch in the previous Spring, you may not want to waste the mulch.  In general I usually hand pick the leaves, if they are wet from a recent rain they tend to be easier to pick.  I also finally invested in a leaf blower with a vacuum option.  If the leaves are dry (and maple, as oak leaves tend to take far longer to decompose) we can vacuum, mulch, and use in the compost pile.

I saw a gardening TV show a few years ago that was encouraging gardeners to create leaf mold/mulch over the winter for the benefit of their gardens in the Spring.  In a nutshell, you collect the leaves into dark green trash bags, add water (only if the leaves are dry; if they are already wet, so much the better), tie off, and then store in your yard in a sunny spot.  The heat from the bag combined with the moistened leaves will cause them to decompose quickly and months later produce a leaf mold that can be used like humus or compost for the benefit of the flower beds.  I love ideas like this one, simple, inexpensive, and useful.  However, we do not have the benefit of a large yard, so finding a secluded sunny spot to place a garbage bag or two isn't doable. I'd have to leave the garbage bag on the front lawn, and I'd worry that the neighbors would be suspicious of just what was in the bag.  (Like, if I saw someone digging in their yard late at night I might begin to wonder when the last time it was I saw their spouse).

One of Three Things Update

The labyrinth has been tweaked a small bit (I think it was missing one more stretch of patio bricks to make it an even number of rows on all sides) and more loam was added to finish the leveling with the lawn. The better half threw down some grass seed on the outside of the bricks in anticipation of a rainy weekend.  The only question that really remained was what to do with the spaces in between the rows.

While I like the idea of planting creeping thyme, I don't want to run the risk that the ground cover will grow so far over the patio bricks that the pattern is obscured.  I also didn't want to the kids to think they couldn't run and play over the labyrinth.  So, we ended up by filling in between the patio bricks with pebbles that we purchased from Home Depot.  While creeping thyme or some other type of ground cover might have been prettier, it didn't seem as practical.  Most likely the dampness will cause some pretty moss to grow over time (just as it has on our other walkways).

One of Three Underway

No, we haven't built an alien spaceship pad in the middle of our backyard (although the neighbors might think we have).  On Saturday we bought loam to fill in the back yard (went the cheap route and headed for Lowe's) along with some grass seed.  While we were there, I noted that the patio bricks were on sale (end of season) for 20% off regular price.  I had pretty much scrapped the idea of a labyrinth, thinking it too complicated and unnecessary, but then priced the least expensive patio "brick" and thought, why not?  So I went home and came up with the simplest design I could imagine, counted up the bricks needed, and went back and bought enough plus a couple extra in case of future breakage.  The preliminary result is below:

Part of me thinks it might be too uncomplicated, but we haven't filled it in yet just to see if it needs tweaking before we finish with loam and grass seed on the outside and mulch on the inside.  That is next weekend's project.  Meanwhile I'll probably keep looking at it to be certain it's perfect.  Once it's been set it won't be easy to move or adjust.

These Three Things

The end of summer is approaching and I've felt particularly lazy about posting progress or advice.  When you've worked hard over the Spring and early Summer, the enthusiasm for yard work may have all but disappeared by Labor Day.  Though I've tried to keep up with the new weeds (which usually follow any significant rain fall) and I've mentally made plans to fill in the large divot in the back yard where the kids' wooden playset used to take residence, re-seed grassy areas that still need love, and mulch the path that used to be in the front (now overgrown with ajuga), I haven't quite summoned the energy.  Part of the delay is because the weather has either been too hot or, lately, too rainy.  The other part is lack of ambition.  If you find that you are resenting the work, take a break from it.  If you are stuck because you feel that you do not have an adequate plan or course of action, then do a little research and see what your options are.

Currently, I have three things I would really like to do in my yard if time (and resources) permit.  I would like to put in a labyrinth in the rectangular section of the back yard left vacant by the kids' playset.  I would like to replace the asphalt path that leads from the driveway to the front steps with a brick path (we have brick steps and a brick path would add so much).  And, I'd really like to fix the side garden/grassy area by the driveway with a traditional square garden sectioned off for growing vegetables and perennials.

When I discuss the idea of a labyrinth I am usually greeted with polite nods and smiles.  I'm thinking some people envision a large maze with trimmed hedges leading path walkers down a confusing series of walkways.  What I am really talking about is a design in pavers that creates a path that leads into a central core and back out again (not really a maze, although it is often confused with one).  What intimidates me most is trying to design such a path with rectangular edges.  Most designs online are circular and our space is fairly limited.  Also, picking out reasonably priced pavers, predicting how many will be needed, and how close to set them is mystifying me.  I am also wondering if it's overkill considering how many other unusual choices we've made to our yard already.

The brick path is another stumbling block.  I would prefer to hire someone to put one in, but imagine that the price would be considerable.  My sister claims it is easy as she has installed them herself, but first the asphalt must be removed.  While I do not disagree that I could probably do it myself, I hesitate on the issues of how much sand, gravel, and brick to buy?  How do you keep the path clear while you are installing the sand, gravel, and brick?  And do I have that kind of free time to dedicate?

And, finally, perhaps the easiest on the wish list, to fix the side garden area that seems to need a bit of help.  In Fantasyland (where I like to go when things get tough) I am able to create a garden in four sections with a cross shaped in between for easy weeding.  In reality, I have a young apple tree right in the middle of the square that is most likely too large to move, and too sentimental to kill.   My daughter started that tree in kindergarten after picking the seeds out of an apple she ate and (using skills she learned in camp) getting them to sprout by keeping them moist against a paper towel and sealed in a sandwich bag.  This tree is now 8 feet tall and there is no other space for it in the yard.  Though I have no use for an apple tree (the number of apples it may produce some day will not be worth the care and maintenance over time, at least not for me) my daughter is really proud of her tree and I can't bring myself to kill it, though I've dreamed about it many times.

As a sort of compromise, I have left the the tree and altered my design for the side garden.  I decided to leave the square garden in the middle, a grass path around the edge, and finish the strip of garden around the outside.  Ok, so this photo is not pretty, but it's temporary.  In order to complete the strip of garden around the outside I have to finish killing the grass (mostly crabgrass) left along one patch in between some plants I put in the ground (where the grass did not survive last winter) and the garden edge won in a battle over property lines with the next door neighbor.  Because I'm low on ambition, I threw down some newspaper on the grass to be eliminated, rather than dig it up.  To keep it in place, I used bricks and broken up pallet pieces.  Over the winter, the grass will die (and it hadn't bloomed so seeds should not be a problem) and in the spring I'll be able to put in some extra plants I have around the yard (and remove the newspaper as it will have done it's job).

If you choose to use the low ambition/newspaper method and you don't like the way it looks, you can throw down some mulch over it to cover the newspaper and go ahead and plant by cutting a holes in the newspaper.  Eventually the newspaper will disintegrate, but can easily be removed if it doesn't.

Crabgrass Makes Me Crabby

This is the most disappointing time of year.  The desirable grass has gone dormant in the heat and the crabgrass seems to have taken hold.  I've tried hand pulling the crabgrass and other weeds, like wood sorrel, out of the lawn, but, seriously, it's like trying to move a mountain of snow with a teaspoon.  Sure, it can be done, but is it really worth it?  Probably not.  I found myself feeling particularly discouraged while mowing the lawn yesterday about the proliferation of crab grass and its ability to lie so low that the mower doesn't cut it (or its blossoms which will set the seeds for next year-lucky me!).

Ideally, each Spring, just as the forsythia is beginning to bloom, you spread a "pre-emergence" on the ground to prevent weed seeds from sprouting in your lawn ("pre-emergence" containing corn gluten is an all natural, safe alternative to chemical pre-emergent herbicides).  The only trouble is you can't spread grass seed at the same time (obviously, since the pre-emergence will keep those seeds from sprouting, too).  What to do?  Looking back over this year we chose grass seed over pre-emergence and I may be regretting that decision. Because so much of the crabgrass has bloomed and thrown its seeds all over creation, next year we'll do the pre-emergence, suffer with brown turf in the summer, and then put down grass seed in the Fall.  (We wouldn't have to worry about grass seed each year but our yard has a lot of fill, sand, rocks, and glass, with very little loam, and poor drainage.  After a wet winter we can end up with standing water in the backyard that will cause damage to the grass as it freezes and melts in the spring.)

The Basics of Trimming

The other day I stumbled upon an infomercial for a new product called the "Garden Groom".  This is a compact unit with an enclosed blade designed, supposedly, to trim your shrubs and hedges with a minimum of work and effort.  I will admit the attached basin designed to mulch the branches it collects makes it appear to be a good idea, you can either empty the basin into a leaf bag or onto areas needing mulch, saving one more step in your trimming process.  However, despite how "easy" the infomercial makes it seem to shape a shrub, it violates everything that you really should do when trimming a shrub, and doesn't really work as described (at least according to the online reviews).  In fact, while watching the infomercial I found myself getting a little irritated.

Why irritated?  Because shrubs and hedges will not thrive over the years being trimmed only on the surface.  When you only cut the top growth on a shrub (like a yew or a holly) you spark that limb to branch out with new growth.  Then the next year you trim those new branches and then those branch out, too.  Over the years, you end up with an overly thick green surface on your shrub with all dead wood underneath.  Air needs to circulate within the main branches of your shrubs and water needs to get to the roots.  The best course of action is to thin your shrubs and hedges.  My sister uses the "keep it simple" theory.  That is, uncomplicate your shrub.  Take out any branches that cross each other, trim back any branches that are dead or dying, and reduce your shrub to several strong main branches especially if you expect the shrub to grow quite large (like a hydrangea, rhododendron, and so forth).

Please be careful to time the trimming of your shrubs so that you don't loose this (or next) year's  blooms.  For example, I always trim my hydrangea in the Spring before it begins to leaf out.  As I recall, a hydrangea is like a weigela, blooms only on new growth so it's better to cut back the older limbs when shaping the shrub.  For Spring blooming shrubs, like rhododendrons, it's best to cut it back once it's done blooming.  If you do it in the Spring, like your hydrangea, you will actually be cutting off those branches that would be producing the blooms.  If you must cut a significant amount of your shrub back due to a long period of over growth, be prepared to have a couple of lean years of blossoms before the shrub fully recovers.  For old lilacs, you can cut up to a third of the shrub back without harming it, but other shrubs, like a spirea, you can almost cut it to the ground with no repercussions; it's best to check a gardening resource (like a local nursery) if you are unsure.

This is a dwarf Hinoki False Cypress

This is a Boulevard False Cypress

Some evergreens, like false cypress, mugo pines, and arborvitae, need no trimming at all (and do not lose leaves in Fall).  If you would like to keep your yard work to a minimum, consider planting evergreens as opposed to blooming shrubs. Just be sure that you give your shrub plenty of room to grow especially if you will not be trimming it back.  I've since moved the autumn joy sedum seen behind the Hinoki False Cypress as the two were too close together.  Another nice thing about these false cypress, is that they grow quickly.  We could only afford to purchase very young specimens and at first, we thought it would take a long time for them to mature, but we've had each only a few years (maybe 6?) and they really look beautiful.  The Hinoki has also been moved three times in the yard until I finally settled on its perfect spot and it has forgiven me each time.  (I first had it in the front like the Boulevard but the snow and ice that landed on it from the roof caused trunk to split.  I cut out the broken limbs, and it grew right back into the space.)

Overcrowding Revisited

Overcrowding your yard is so tempting when you are first planting trees, shrubs, and perennials.  You look at your yard and want that instant gratification of seeing masses of color and texture.  DO YOURSELF A FAVOR - RESIST! There are three stages of perennials (according to gardening lore): sleep, creep, and leap. Remember this when you feel impatient.  If you over crowd you'll spend those "leaping" years moving, rearranging, and perhaps tossing a lot of plants.

Not that you won't ever have to move things around even if you are careful in your placement.  Currently I am considering whether to find new homes for a dozen or so yellow siberian iris (not my favorite as they bloom only halfway up the stem unlike my purple who blooms are so elegantly perches atop theirs), some purple cone flowers (aren't blooming as I thought they would in a mildly shady area, plus getting overwhelmed by a maturing holly bush), some daylilies, and a gigantic misplaced hosta that I thought would just be smaller. It is usually best to move and rearrange your yard in spring and fall when the plants are either going into dormancy or just coming out.  I will probably ignore that rule this summer as I'm afraid with all those leaves to be raked in the fall I won't have time.  So, for those plants that have already bloomed (iris and lilies) I will go ahead and move them.  I will also be certain to water frequently until winter to make sure their chances of surviving my impatience are greater.